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PINK PARTY:  Pleated pants in silk embossed. Velvet felt hat. Leather laced boots and jacket. Gabrielle Lys. February 26, 2011.
PINK PARTY:
Pleated pants in silk embossed. Velvet felt hat. Leather laced boots and jacket.
Gabrielle Lys. February 26, 2011.


The bad boy: Divided between the good and the evil. (Colors of M.) Gabrielle Lys July 2006.
The bad boy:
Divided between the good and the evil. (Colors of M.) Gabrielle Lys July 2006.


BLACK HAIR, RED DRESS: Party dress of the golden age of the seam built around the corset in the style of Christian Dior in 1947. Make-up chamanic. Self-portrait. Gabrielle Lys. May 1, 2008.
BLACK HAIR, RED DRESS:
Party dress of the golden age of the seam built around the corset in the style of Christian Dior in 1947. Make-up chamanic.
Self-portrait. Gabrielle Lys.
May 1, 2008.


SHAMAN FEATHER: Year 2013. The Shaman wears a dress representing his female-spiritual. He carries the red feather, symbol of his authority in the community. Gabrielle Lys October 2007.
SHAMAN FEATHER:
Year 2013. The Shaman wears a dress representing his female-spiritual. He carries the red feather, symbol of his authority in the community.
Gabrielle Lys October 2007.



The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? the garonne with the car.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle

DRESS OF HALLELUJAH: Her beauty and the moonlight overthrew you. She broke your throne and she cut your hair. And from your lips she drew the hallelujah. Hallelujah, hallelujah, hallelujah...  She wears the dress of the Alleluia. Dress in silk Jersey printed with the hand. Gabrielle Lys. April 9th 2008.
DRESS OF HALLELUJAH:
"Her beauty and the moonlight overthrew you.
She broke your throne
and she cut your hair.
And from your lips
she drew the hallelujah.
Hallelujah, hallelujah,
hallelujah..."

"She" wears the dress of the Alleluia. Dress in silk Jersey printed with the hand.
Gabrielle Lys. April 9th 2008.


The coat bar: Militant opposed to the death penalty in the United States. The coat bar: symbol of the rebellion. Gabrielle Lys. Special Cubism Collection. May 2007.
The coat "bar":
Militant opposed to the death penalty in the United States. The coat "bar": symbol of the rebellion.
Gabrielle Lys. Special Cubism Collection. May 2007.


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Androgynous in mind. Male in nature. Female in appearance. What else... Mind the step!
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Last msg of GuestBook :
Didier - France - - added 12/04/2018.
je porte des jupes et jupons des années 50/60 a la maison mais n'ose pas sortir habillé comme cela dans la rue. Par contre je sort habillé en kilt écossais le plus souvent possible se qui ne me gêne pas car j'adore porter des jupes plissée et bien sur les kilts

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