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YOUR CHANCE: There are so many desires, so many dreams which are born from a true suffering, Which launches you and supports you, It is your chance, your appetite, your gasoline, The wound where you will come to draw the force and the impertinence, Which advances you a little further, It is your chance, your source, your dissidence, Always to prove twice as much as the others dormant of evidence, Your power will be born there... [C'est ta chance - Jean Jacques Goldman].  Thigh boots Gabrielle Lys. Dress out of jacquard with crystals. Gabrielle Lys Octobre 2007.
YOUR CHANCE:
There are so many desires, so many dreams which are born from a true suffering,
Which launches you and supports you,
It is your chance, your appetite, your gasoline,
The wound where you will come to draw the force and the impertinence,
Which advances you a little further,
It is your chance, your source, your dissidence,
Always to prove twice as much as the others dormant of evidence,
Your power will be born there...
[C'est ta chance - Jean Jacques Goldman].

Thigh boots Gabrielle Lys. Dress out of jacquard with crystals.
Gabrielle Lys Octobre 2007.


Indian Shaman of America: Wizard of the reserve of Prick Ridge, South Dakota. Skirt in skin of caribou. Head jewel in resin. Shoes with platform. Gabrielle Lys. August 2007.
Indian Shaman of America:
Wizard of the reserve of Prick Ridge, South Dakota. Skirt in skin of caribou. Head jewel in resin. Shoes with platform.
Gabrielle Lys. August 2007.


The bad boy: Divided between the good and the evil. (Colors of M.) Gabrielle Lys July 2006.
The bad boy:
Divided between the good and the evil. (Colors of M.) Gabrielle Lys July 2006.


BEAUTIFUL PAST: High wrinkled skirt with great width and inspired of the skirts of the end of the 18th century. Matched make-up. Gabrielle Lys. April 8th 2008.
BEAUTIFUL PAST:
High wrinkled skirt with great width and inspired of the skirts of the end of the 18th century. Matched make-up.
Gabrielle Lys. April 8th 2008.



The garçonnes or the first women in trousers.

Introduction

dot  Less than one hundred years before the movement of the men out of Skirts, there were the women in trousers.... This article pays homage to these women pionnières who had courage to face the homophobie, with the mockeries, with the disapproval of the society during the decade 1920-1930 while carrying the trousers. By adopting the dress of the men, they were the precursors of the movement of emancipation and liberalization of the women.

Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ? the garonne with the car.
Poses calculated or urgent seized by the photographer ?
"the garonne with the car".

La garçonne.
dot  Symbol of the Mad years, the garçonne, with her cut hair, her shortened dresses, her tubular look is a figure of androgyne mode which hesitates between masculine and invention of a new femininity. She incarne, in ambiguous manner, the emancipation of the women. The adversaries with this emancipation did not fail to compare the garçonnes to the lesbians, thus using the homophobie against the women. Thus, since 1889, we estimate that we almost always can suspect a homosexuality among women who carry the short hair or which gets dressed like men or who practise the sports of the men. The sign of the sex by clothing is indeed at that time a fundamental cultural feature. It assigns each sex in its place in all the manifestations of the social life. However, in this century marked by the male domination, to adopt the dress of the men is a gesture of stamping. Women face to the sarcastic remarks become models for the women witch like freedom: Rosa Happiness, George Sand, exploring Jane Dieulafoy or the writter Rachilde wear the male dress.

Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.

dot  In 1920, the short cut and squared said precisely "to the garçonne" holds the top of the paving stone while the movie inaugurates the legendary career of star like Louise Brooks. The opponents of the emancipation of the women make run the rumour that the short cuts cause baldnesses, or, on the contrary, activate the pilosity of the face... But a new femininity is invented : The released neck and the nape of the neck emphasize outer earrings. On the stripped arms scintillate of many rigid bracelets, tightened "with the slave" while the movement of the body is underlined by many jewels imagination and pins...

New femininity:  the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars. Louise Brooks
New femininity: the released nape of the neck emphasizes large collars.
Louise Brooks

The arrival of the trousers

dot  The appearance of the trousers In 1924, the Skirts are "short": on average to 26 cm of the ground. In 1925, they are to 30 or 35 cm of the ground. In 1926, they are to 40 cm then lengthen gradually until 1930 when they will be stabilized to 30 or 32 cm of the ground. But with the garçonne, male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom. It is not a question of vestimentary eccentricity but falls under a progress of feminism. The equality of the sexes seems initially like a negation of femininity and a will to imitate the men. The trousers, symbol of virility appears at the end of the Twenties in female wardrobe even they are already used since 1920 for horsemanship, hunting or golf. They also exist in the form of silk pyjamas to replace the housecoat since 1924. With the variation of the changes, the countryside will remain a long time faithful to its vestimentary traditions and its regional costumes. Thus, a long time, some priests will refuse the communion with the girls in trousers. The public school will hardly be shown more tolerant by prohibiting the trousers until the end of the Sixties, except during the winter rigours, provided that it is carried under the Skirt. In 1930, the women's right to get dressed as a man is even discussed in front of the courts. Thus, Violette Morris, catch of the sporting female Federation of France carries felt sorry for because its federation withdrew her licence because of her behaviour considered to be too male. To 37 years, she increases very short cut hair, the trousers and jacket with tie. she will be even marked by the rumour to have to remove her too prominent chest to drive its car... The court will declare that "to carry trousers not allowed for women, the sporting female federation of France had perfectly the right to prohibit it"...

The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929. Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves. Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.
The actress Charlotte Andler in 1929.
Jacket, trousers, shirt, bow tie, gloves.
Male wardrobe enters the female cloakroom.

dot  Nevertheless, these courageous women will triumph over the aesthetic divergences, morals and policies to enter manners and to thus open the way of the modern woman such as we know it today.
Gabrielle Lys
Bibliography:
"Les Garçonnes. Modes et fantasmes des années folles".
Christine Bard, Paris, Flammarion, 1998.


Short cut and squared said precisely to the garonne Louise Brooks.
Short cut and squared said precisely "to the garonne"
Louise Brooks.


The site is a success thanks to you all. Thank you for your expressions of sympathy in the golden book and ideological support of members. Thank you also with those which write personal messages to me. They suit me right to the heart and push me to advance always further.
Gabrielle Lys

The man MissingSign: Pleated MissingSign skirt for man and MissingSign Tee-shirt. Short ankle boots Arche. Gabrielle Lys 2005.
The man MissingSign:
Pleated MissingSign skirt for man and MissingSign Tee-shirt. Short ankle boots Arche.
Gabrielle Lys 2005.


MARS 2030 First permanent station on Mars in 2030. Prescribed uniform during operating hours: black suit for women and red dress for men. Gabrielle Lys. July 21, 2014.
MARS 2030
First permanent station on Mars in 2030.
Prescribed uniform during operating hours:
black suit for women and red dress for men.
Gabrielle Lys. July 21, 2014.


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Androgynous in mind. Male in nature. Female in appearance. What else... Mind the step!
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Last msg of GuestBook :
Didier - France - - added 12/04/2018.
je porte des jupes et jupons des années 50/60 a la maison mais n'ose pas sortir habillé comme cela dans la rue. Par contre je sort habillé en kilt écossais le plus souvent possible se qui ne me gêne pas car j'adore porter des jupes plissée et bien sur les kilts

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